Bras History
Fashion Reports the First Brassiere 1907
Bra fashion history began as far back as Cretan times, but 1907, was the year when the word brassiere was first reported in an American copy of Vogue. The original French meaning was support, but the word was out of use and the French chose to call a bra soutien-gorge. Cretan women wore bras thousands of years ago. In England bust improvers were available in the Edwardian period. By 1905 BBs as they were known were usual wear.
Right - Reform Bodice Bra
This is the early supposedly healthier Reform Bodice bra with mesh net cups that gave virtually no support.
Early Brassieres Pre 1915
Most of the major designers of the era have tried to lay claim to designing the first bra. Poiret probably had the strongest claim. What is certain, is that all the designers promoted a simple breast retaining garment as better for the newer simple straight dress styles.
In the costume history of bras these early bras were similar to camisoles tops of the 1980s and 1990s. Initially at the turn of the 20th century even the word camisole was used too, but replaced by 'Bust Bodice' by 1905. Left - Wrap around camisole style bra.
In her bra history book 'Bras', Rosemary Hawthorne tells of her collection of brassières and of one that is stamped ' Brassiere. Model 441, British Made ', then of another 2-3 years older marked 'LA CYBELE' (No 18 British Made)'. By 1915 the magazine 'The Lady' recorded pretty bust bodices or brassieres as essential wear. Rosemary Hawthorne's bra history book is very informative and she often describes genuine examples of bras, corsets and girdles she has collected or has had donated to her.
Mary Phelps-Jacobs's Patented Bra 1914
Bra fashion history truly began with the first bra to be patented. The first bra was patented in 1914 by Mary Phelps-Jacobs an American. It is not thought to be the first bra ever, but it is the first patented record and that gives her the credit.
Mary Phelps-Jacobs patented her bra design under the patent name of Caresse Crosby. Some suggest it was her French maid who provided the idea or the stitching help. Two silk handkerchiefs were tied together, baby ribbon sewn on to make straps and a seam set in the centre front.
Right - The Phelps-Jacobs Bra Specification Patent
Phelps Jacobs couldn't get much interest for her idea and sales were minimal, so for $1500 she sold the rights to Warners...and a few years later just change that fifteen hundred patent valuation for fifteen million dollars... Warners have been involved in bra production ever since. Within a year, breasts were measured in inches rather than being categorized small, medium or large.
Bras after 1930
After 1930 all the names we know well in lingerie and corsetry today began manufacturing bras with quite separate cups. They used quality cotton lace and net.
One famous bra designed in the 1930s was the Kestos bra and later the Kestos Utility Bra shown right. Its simple seaming looks classy and could be effective today.
Warners Introduce Cup Sizing 1935
Bra history took on a new dimension when in 1935, Warners introduced four cup sizes called A, B, C and D, but it was well into the 1950s before Britain followed this American standard. The British corset manufacturers were still using coy descriptions like junior and medium to describe breast fullness.
Bosoms were dethroned and separate breasts were really acknowledged.
Utility Bras 1940s
Fashion history is always affected by material shortages during and immediately after wars. In the war era after 1940, bras were made from minimal fabric when they bore the Utility mark. Utility bras were serviceable bras using broche, a cotton backed satin or drill and often peach pink in colour. Supplies were very limited and were best ordered. Twilfit manufactured utility bras and Twilfit were a household name for roll-ons and bras in the 1950s.
Women also made their own bras from paper patterns or magazine guidelines for making bra and French knicker sets. The fabric they used was sometimes parachute silk, parachute nylon or old satin wedding dresses. Once the 1950s arrived changes in textile technology saw new developments in all underwear items, but particularly in the costume history of bras.
